The "Tricky Dick" is named after Richard Nixon, who restored ties to China in 1972 and opened both nations to cross-cultural hybridization. The glaze’s floral, tingling notes grow with each bite. You can either fry up your own dough, or purchase a quality glazed donut and overcoat. Feel free to experiment- the glaze is perfect on Youtiao 油条 or ridged potato chips.

Ingredients for the Glaze (serves 12):

            ¼ cup (60 gms) whole milk
            2 cups (240 gms) powdered sugar
            ½ tsp (3 gms) table salt
            1 TBS (5 gms) green Sichuan peppercorns.
            Red pepper flakes (preferably Aleppo) for decoration

(optional- sprinkle on some freshly ground Sichuan peppercorns for added tingle)
(optional- red peppercorns and hot chili flakes amp up flavor, but mask floral notes)
(optional- add 2 tsp corn syrup for a softer glaze)

 

Steps:

1. Grind up the peppercorns in a mortar and pestle. Look for a mixture of large and small pieces.
2. Blend the peppercorns in milk and steep for at least 2 hours in fridge. Overnight is best. This helps extract the tingling “Ma” flavor.
3. Heat the milk on low, and slowly whisk in the powdered sugar and salt until a glaze forms.
4. Take the pot off the stove but keep warm by floating in a bowl of very hot water.
5. Dip donuts in glaze, place on racks, and IMMEDIATELY sprinkle with red pepper flakes. Otherwise, the glaze will set and the flakes will not adhere.
6. Enjoy!

Store unused glaze in tightlly sealed container in the fridge. Add a half tsp of water and microwave briefly to re-liquify for late night snacking. You can also blend in a few drops of Sichuan peppercorn oil to refresh the floral flavor.

 

A word about purchasing Sichuan Peppercorns:

Like all herbs and spices, you get what you pay for. Higher quality suppliers sell fresh spices which are dramatically more flavorful than old or improperly handled stock. In the case of Sichuan peppercorns (which are really members of the citrus prickly ash family), active ingredients like hydroxy-alpha sanshool and other alkylamides are concentrated in bumpy oil glands dotting the HUSK, not the SEED. When gently dried at the processing plant, the follicle husk should split open and the black, bitter seed, shaken out. But cheaper manufacturers often leave the seeds in, or the black seeds are crushed into powder (like ground pepper) which collects in the bottom of the spice container. If you finely grind your peppercorns (or extract the tingling flavor in alcohol), that bitterness is often unpleasant. Avoid husks with seeds!

Quality, fresh peppercorns husks should be brightly colored and seed-free, like these below (a mix of red and green varieties). Old stock is dull in appearance, and the aromatics weaker.

A word about Vodka:

There are many ways to extract the Sichuan peppercorn flavor- simmering in oil, soaking in water or applying as a dry rub. I find the most intense extraction is in ethanol, i.e. flavorless vodka. Soak about one crushed tablespoon of good quality husks (no seeds!) in 1/4 cup of flavorless vodka. After about a week in the fridge the vodka is infused with a strong floral, tingly character. Perfect for mixed drinks, or you can add to a stir-fry or soup. Just cook off the alcohol flavor, and enjoy.